How to plant garlic
Experienced gardeners know how to plant garlic in order to get a good harvest. Garlic is a frost-resistant crop; it can be planted both in winter and early spring.
Content:
Basic rules for planting garlic
- you need to choose a sunny place in the garden;
- It is recommended to plant garlic after cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, and peppers;
- It is not recommended to plant garlic after all types of onions and garlic, potatoes, carrots, beets, tomatoes;
- The soil for garlic must be fertilized in advance.
Most summer residents prefer to plant winter garlic late autumn, but it is better to give up this habit, since if you plant this crop before the onset of frost, the garlic will not form a powerful root system, and in the spring it will be weakened.
How to plant garlic in winter? You should not delay the timing and do it in early autumn; for planting it is better to use large-sized cloves.
To avoid unwanted diseases and rot, it is necessary to carry out prophylaxis on the cloves intended for planting; to do this, they are soaked in a very weak solution of potassium permanganate or in a solution of the “Maxim” preparation for bulbous plants.
Garlic loves loamy and sandy soils that are enriched with humus. It is advisable to place the beds in the direction from north to south, the distance between the rows should be about 40 cm, and between the garlic about 10 cm. The cloves should be planted to a depth of 7-10 cm. Before planting, it is necessary to water the rows generously and mulch them with sand.
Spring garlic planted in the spring as early as possible, with the first access to the garden; if planting is a few days late, the garlic yield will noticeably decrease.
Temperature conditions for spring garlic
The yield of spring garlic is affected by storage temperature. When storing garlic at a temperature of 18-20 degrees, its growing season lengthens, and the bulb forms quite large. But experience shows that garlic may not ripen and the bulb may not even have time to form. If garlic is stored at low temperatures before planting, this will shorten the growing season, but the bulb will form small.
Therefore, it is better to store spring garlic when temperatures change. First store at a temperature of 18-20 degrees, and a month and a half before planting, reduce the temperature to 3-5 degrees. With this regime, the period from planting to germination is shortened, the growing season is averaged, which contributes to better formation of bulbs and an increase in the number of covering scales. Thus, the shelf life of garlic increases.
The best results were obtained when planting cloves weighing 2g. You should select teeth that are the same size. The area for plant nutrition is selected depending on the purpose of cultivation. For consumption, a slightly thickened planting of cloves in a row (about 4 cm from each other) is quite possible. To obtain seed bulbs, the gap in the row is larger, up to 10 cm.
Winter garlic
Start planting winter garlic follows in the second half of September. When parsing garlic heads into cloves, try not to damage the covering scales, since cloves with damaged top flakes will rot in the ground. It is also better to select the same teeth for planting.
After planting, it is advisable to sprinkle the soil with rotted manure or mature compost. In spring, the mulch layer must be added after the soil has warmed up.
At the end of June, garlic plants bolt (throw out arrows). They need to be broken out regularly, and not allowed to stretch out more than 10 cm. A plant that has gone into the shoot will produce a smaller bulb. In addition, try to prevent the heads from overripening in the ground. In overripe garlic cloves, the upper scales burst and the teeth in the head crumble. Such heads cannot be stored.
Planting bulbs
Not every garlic can produce aerial bulbs - bulbils; bolting winter varieties have this property.
What is interesting about this method of reproduction? Garlic from bulbs grows very viable and is much less affected by pests and diseases. Another good reason is saving planting material. After all, planting requires spending almost a seventh of the harvest.
The harvest from the bulbs is expected for two years. When sowing in spring, small single-claw garlic heads are obtained by August. The next season, large heads grow from them. In the south, many people plant bulbs in September. The planting depth of bulbs is 3-5 cm.
Before sowing, mark the plot and use a hoe to make furrows to the specified depth. Then arrange the bulbs, taking into account whether you will replant them next year or not. If replanting is not provided, then sow sparsely, no more than 3 cm between aerial bulbs. 25-30 bulbs are required per 1 linear meter.
So, we looked at the features of planting winter and spring garlic, as well as planting garlic with aerial bulbs. It has been proven that phytoncides this useful crop kill pathogenic microbes.In addition, garlic stimulates digestion, regulates blood circulation, and prevents the development of atherosclerosis. Grow this wonderful plant and be healthy!
Comments
I also read that garlic has its own lifespan, i.e. You cannot make seedlings from one harvest for a long time, because garlic begins to degenerate, there are few cloves in it, they are large and quickly disappear. And so, it seems like we are doing everything right.
I don’t have any problems with garlic, I plant it in early autumn, I water it sometimes, I really fertilize the soil before planting, and I collect it in the spring. It loves the sun, so I plant it where there is more of it. The arrows must be cut off and not allowed to grow. I think garlic is one of the most unpretentious plants.
I have never followed the rules for planting garlic, but I need to. I plant it as my grandmother taught my mother, and my mother seems to be fine. We change places every other year, plant in the fall, water and fertilize.
Of course, I don’t take that much care when it comes to planting garlic. This culture is quite easy-going and grows well under any conditions. But I will try to take into account the basic rules for planting garlic indicated in the article. Because I really noticed that after carrots it grows rather poorly.
Try looking at this address: https://garden-en.tomathouse.com/entry/nebolshoe-prisposoblenie-dlya-posadki-chesnoka-luka-i-dr on the same site.
I prefer to grow winter garlic because it is much larger than spring garlic. One problem is that the variety deteriorates over time and needs to be renewed. But for this you can use the seeds that form on the arrows. I leave five or six pieces and from them I get planting material.